Belas Knap long barrow, Gloucestershire

Belas Knap is a Neolithic long barrow that dates from around 3,700 BC. It is on a ridge of the Cotswold Hills (Cleeve Hill) high above the small town of Winchcombe in Gloucestershire.

Belas Knap is what is known as a chambered long barrow, in that it consists of a mound of earth into which stone-lined burial chambers – now open - were inserted. There are four such chambers at Belas Knap, two on opposites sides about half way along, one at the far end from the “entrance”, and another at the side close to the last-mentioned chamber.

The supposed entrance is actually false, in that the barrow does not contain a central covered way. The mound forms wings or “horns” at one end that guard a small courtyard that was probably used for ceremonial purposes.

The barrow is about 180 feet long, 60 feet wide and 14 feet high at its highest point.

Excavations of the barrow took place in 1863-5 and 1928, which discovered many human and animal remains in the four chambers and hidden behind the stone facing of the false entrance. It is believed that at least 38 people of various ages were buried here over a 100 year period. Some of them showed evidence of having died violent deaths from head injuries.

During the 1928 excavation a considerable amount of restoration work was done to Belas Knap so that it probably looks today much as it did 5,500 years ago. The work involved re-roofing the burial chambers with concrete, but that is the only discordant feature that can be seen here today.

Belas Knap can only be reached on foot, involving a steep climb from the nearest roadside access point. However, the effort is well rewarded, not only for the visit to the ancient monument but also for the magnificent views to be had across the surrounding countryside, given that this is close to the highest point of the Cotswolds.

© John Welford

Rotten Row, Hyde Park, London

This broad sandy avenue runs for nearly a mile along the south side of London’s Hyde Park, and there is absolutely nothing rotten about it – either literally or figuratively! 

It was first laid out during the joint reign of King William III and Queen Mary II, which lasted from 1689 to Mary’s death in 1694 (after which William reigned alone for another eight years). 

The avenue was laid out as a private road to grant safe access for the royals between Kensington Palace and the central London residences of St James’s Palace and Whitehall (reached via the adjoining Green Park to the east). 

The route was lit at night by 300 oil lamps, as a precaution against highwaymen, and Rotten Row was thus the first artificially lit road in Britain. 

In later years Rotten Row became a fashionable place for exercising horses, being close to the homes of many upper-class Londoners who lived in the vicinity of Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens. It was somewhere to see and be seen and was often crowded with riders, although these days not many Londoners have houses with stables attached, so the Row is usually empty. 

However, it is still a regular exercise route for the Household Cavalry, whose barracks are close by. 

But why the name Rotten Row? It is simply a corruption of the original name “Rue du Roi”, or “King’s Road”. It is not difficult to see how Londoners with no knowledge of French might convert the name to what it has been for several centuries past! 

© John Welford