Cheddar Gorge, Somerset

Cheddar Gorge, together with its caves, is well worth a visit if you are ever in north Somerset. However, its popularity means that it is better to go there outside the main tourist season.

Cheddar Gorge

The Mendip Hills of Somerset are composed of carboniferous limestone rock that, over many tens of thousands of years, has been worn down by the action of water and partially dissolved by it. The formation of the rock means that it splits naturally along weak points, so that streams can suddenly disappear underground and excavate caverns as they find a new route to the sea. Eventually these caverns can collapse. One place where this has happened is Cheddar Gorge.

The result is a spectacular piece of scenery. The best way to see the gorge is to travel along the minor road from Priddy to Cheddar, which takes you the whole length of the gorge, about three miles. At first you are aware of the green hills getting higher on either side of the road, but the further down you go, the steeper the hills become until they are sheer, rocky cliffs. Watch the road though, because it twists and turns, and at one point it is only wide enough for one car as it dives down between two massive rocks. At the base of the gorge the cliffs are more than 300 feet high on either side.

The gorge is popular rock-climbing territory, but this is only advisable if you know what you are doing and have all the right equipment. There are about 350 official climbing routes within the gorge, and you can have climbing lessons if you are a newbie.

At the end of the gorge is the large village of Cheddar, which is a nightmare to travel through at the height of the tourist season, because of the narrow roads and the number of people who want to come here. However, as with most tourist traps, if you are prepared to walk a mile or so, you will soon leave the crowds behind.

Although the gorge is the result of the collapse of an ancient cave, there are other caves that are far from collapsed, and some of these are open to the public and are easily accessible from Cheddar village.

Cox’s Cave

Cox’s Cave was discovered in 1837 during quarrying by George Cox, who found a series of seven caverns, containing a wide variety of unusual and beautiful rock formations. As water percolates through limestone, it dissolves small amounts of calcium carbonate and other minerals. As it drips from the cave roof, deposits are left behind, both on the roof and on the floor where the drops land. Over many thousands of years, these deposits can form columns of rock, those hanging down known as stalactites and those rising up known as stalagmites. In places, the two columns can meet to form a natural roof buttress.

In Cox’s Cave you can see some very beautiful stalactites and stalagmites of all shapes and sizes, some of them coloured by the minerals that were dissolved in the water that made them. The colours range from black to white, via green, blue, yellow and orange.

Gough’s Cave

Gough’s Cave was discovered in 1903 by Richard Cox Gough, a relative of George Cox and a local guide, who discovered the cave when he fell through the roof. The cave is nearly 300 feet deep (luckily for Richard Gough, not at the place where he fell into it!) and more than a mile long, consisting of a series of caverns of varying sizes. Some of the formations are truly spectacular, with tiers of stalactites retreating into the distance and reflected in the still pools below.

Evidence has been found in Gough’s Cave of habitation by stone-age man. A cave painting of a mammoth has been discovered that is estimated to be 13,000 years old, and the nearly complete skeleton of a cave dweller from 9,000 years ago can be seen in the local museum, along with flint axes and other implements.

You may also see, in the cave, signs of what has made Cheddar world-famous, apart from the gorge. This is Cheddar cheese, which has been produced locally at least as far back as the 12^th century. After the caves were discovered it became common practice for cheese to be matured in the caves, and the practice has recently been revived.

Other things to see and do

There are plenty of other caves in the area, but most are suitable only for properly equipped cavers and potholers. However, Wookey Hole is only a few miles down the road towards Wells, and this is another “public” cave that is well worth a visit.

While visiting the gorge, a walk up Jacob’s Ladder is worth the effort. This is a flight of 274 steps leading to a lookout tower giving magnificent views over the surrounding countryside. Other walks around the gorge will take you through a nature reserve and to features including the Pinnacles, the highest point of the gorge at 450 feet. The wildlife of the area includes rare butterflies and insects, and plants that are unique to the gorge including the Cheddar pink. Inside the caves are colonies of horseshoe bats.

Cheddar Gorge is justifiably one of Britain’s most visited tourist destinations, which is why it is probably best to make your visit out of season. The gorge itself is never closed, and the caves are open throughout the year. They look much the same whether you come in February or August!

© John Welford