Thursday, 8 September 2016

The New Forest, Hampshire



The New Forest is an area of southern England that has many attractions for the visitor, although he or she must not expect to spend all their time surrounded by trees.

What is the New Forest?

The name “New Forest” is slightly confusing, because it is no longer new and, in the eyes of many people, scarcely constitutes a forest. True, it was new in 1079 when William the Conqueror passed laws to make it a royal hunting domain, but the “National Forest” in the English Midlands is a great deal newer! On the other hand, the creation of the New Forest National Park in 2005 was recent enough.

As for the term “forest”, it is a mistake to think that a forest must consist wholly of trees. There are plenty of trees in the New Forest, but it also has huge areas of open heathland, bog and other open land. These various habitats make the New Forest an extremely valuable wildlife resource, and that is one of the main reasons why millions of people visit this area every year.

Location

The New Forest covers an area of about 220 square miles in south-west Hampshire, with a small part of Wiltshire also included. The main A31 road cuts through from northeast to southwest, providing easy access for the visitor and a tempting glimpse for those who rush through between Southampton and Bournemouth/Poole. The main railway line from Southampton to Bournemouth also snakes through the Forest, with several stations at which semi-fast and local trains stop.

The A31 marks a divide between the northern and southern Forest, with the northern part tending to be wilder and more open than the south. Most visitors head for the southern part, with its small towns, extensive woods and other attractions, but the north is also a delight to visit, especially if you are a walker, cyclist or rider.

To be blunt, the car driver gets the worst deal from the New Forest, as it is only when you get close to it, under your own steam, that you really learn most from what it has to offer. However, the most visited site in the Forest is very accessible to the motorised visitor, namely the Rufus Stone, close to where the A31 becomes the M27. This marks the supposed site of the death of King William II (known as Rufus) who died in 1100 when hunting in the Forest. Whether his death was an accident or an assassination has been the subject of debate for centuries.

A managed wilderness

It is the history of the New Forest that makes it what it is. As a royal hunting park, the laws that governed the Forest ensured that the local people could not cultivate the land or fence in it. Many of these laws still apply, although the penalties for breaking them are far less severe than in William the Conqueror’s day! This is a wilderness, but it is only so because it is a managed wilderness in which the needs of man and nature are carefully balanced.

For example, the “commoners” of the Forest have the right to turn pigs into the woodlands in the autumn to eat the acorns that would otherwise poison the ponies and cattle, and at same time prevent the growth of unwanted oak saplings. These ancient rights and privileges are jealously and efficiently guarded by the “verderers” and “agisters” who ensure that the Forest continues to stay the way it always has, but visitors also have a responsibility to treat it well and preserve an ecosystem that is both enduring and fragile.

Wildlife

One of the main reasons for visiting the New Forest is to experience its wildlife, which can best be done on foot, horseback, or bicycle. The Forest is famous for its semi-wild ponies, which are everywhere, but visitors should be wary of getting too close as they can sometimes be aggressive and give a nasty bite. Less often seen are the five species of deer that roam the woods, including the small sika deer that have descended from stock that escaped into the Forest more than 100 years ago.

The heathlands and bogs are home to the widest range of reptiles and amphibians to be seen anywhere in the British Isles. These include every species of snake and lizard found in Britain. Visitors should be aware that adders (vipers) are Britain’s only venomous snakes, but bites are rare and almost never fatal to humans. If you want to see all the species in one place, a visit to the New Forest Reptile Centre, near Lyndhurst, is a must.

Birdwatchers will find the New Forest very much to their liking, as more than 100 species breed here, and many others are regular winter visitors or migrants. Unusual species to be found here include the hawfinch, hen harrier, woodlark and nightjar.

The Forest is also a haven for many unusual butterflies, dragonflies and other insects, not to mention fungi and wild flowers and other plants, some of which are found nowhere else.

Getting around

To help you get around, there are more than 150 miles of gravel tracks that are off-limits to cars, and several firms rent out bicycles by the day. You can also hire a pony, for either accompanied or unaccompanied rides through the Forest, to which there are few restrictions in terms of hedges or fences.

Places to visit

A short guide to the New Forest cannot cover everything, as there is so much to see and do, but mention should be made of three unusual attractions that should not be missed.

The National Motor Museum was the brainchild of the late Lord Montagu of Beaulieu, and consists of more than 250 motor vehicles of all kinds, tracing the history of motor transport and motorsport, including former holders of the world land speed record. You can also visit Beaulieu Abbey, the ruins of a Cistercian abbey dating from 1204, and Palace House, the former home of Lord Montagu.

Not far from Beaulieu is Buckler’s Hard, a former shipyard that used New Forest timber to build some of the ships that formed Britain’s past navies, including some of Nelson’s fleet that fought at Trafalgar. Some of the cottages of this delightful village have been carefully preserved, and you can trace the history of shipbuilding at the Maritime Museum.

To be absolutely accurate, the third place on the list is just outside the New Forest proper, but should not be missed. This is the Eling Tide Mill at the head of Southampton Water. This is a restored watermill, originally built at least as long ago as the creation of the New Forest by King William I, that operates by filling a millpond from the incoming tide and releasing the trapped water when the tide is low. Visitors can see the mill in operation, although timings depend on the tides, and buy flour that has been ground here.

A special place

The New Forest contains only three small towns (Lyndhurst, Brockenhurst and Lymington) and a number of smaller villages, so hotel accommodation within the Forest is limited. However, this should not be a problem, given that the large population centres of Southampton and Bournemouth/Poole are not far away. One option, especially if you want to experience the Forest at dawn (an excellent idea!) is to camp, and there are nine campsites in the Forest that are managed by the Forestry Commission.

The New Forest is a very special place, to be enjoyed and savoured, never rushed but always respected. It is full of surprises (for example, the grave of the original “Alice in Wonderland” can be seen at Lyndhurst), and is always changing with the seasons and the weather. It is very accessible yet unspoiled. Its status as a National Park will ensure that this continues to be the case for many future generations.

For more information, see these websites:




© John Welford

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