Lichfield Cathedral’s claim to fame is that it
is the only cathedral in Britain to have three spires (“The Ladies of the
Vale”), two at the west end and the third, and tallest at 252 feet, at the
crossing. It is unfortunate in that it has suffered from considerable damage
over the centuries, and the various efforts at restoration have not always been
sympathetic to the original design.
The history of the cathedral
The cathedral began as a shrine to St Chad, an
English bishop who died at Lichfield (in south Staffordshire) in 672. There
were originally three wooden chapels on the site, dedicated to St Mary, St
Peter and St Chad, but these were replaced by a cathedral that was begun in
1085. However, this was in turn replaced by the cathedral that is seen today
and which was begun in 1195 and completed in the 1330s, thus offering a variety
of styles of English Gothic.
The oldest part of the cathedral that has
survived is the western end of the choir, which demonstrates some late Norman
features as well as the typical pointed arches of Early English.
Lichfield Cathedral was built using local
sandstone that is notable for its variations in colour, these being more
clearly seen on the inside where weathering has not been a factor.
The west front, with the two spires, contains
niches for more than a hundred statues. When first built, these represented a
mixture of saints, kings and the supposed ancestors of Christ, but nearly all
of them were pulled down and smashed by Cromwell’s troops during the Civil War
in the 17th century. The replacements that are seen today are
Victorian copies that Alec Clifton-Taylor has described as “passable
advertisements for the local hairdresser, every little wisp of hair having been
carefully ‘set’ in a fussy little curl”.
The Civil War was a bad time for Lichfield
Cathedral, which was a battleground on three separate occasions between the
forces of King Charles and those of Parliament. The damage included the
destruction of the central spire and the removal of the roof, plus the smashing
of all the stained glass. Repairs started soon after the Restoration of Charles
II in 1660 but took until the 19th century to be completed. For
example, some of the stained glass seen today (in the Lady Chapel) is of 16th
century origin but was bought from an abbey in Belgium in 1802.
Lichfield Cathedral also fell victim to the
misguided degradations of James Wyatt in the 1790s, but the more sympathetic
work of George Gilbert Scott in the 1850s and 1870s helped to undo some of the
damage, despite the awful west front statues.
Features of Lichfield Cathedral
Probably the best feature of the cathedral’s
interior is the aisled nave, which is 14th century. The proportions
are excellent, being reminiscent of those of Westminster Abbey, of similar
date, although the nave is not as lofty. There is a pleasing symmetry in the
design, with geometrical patterning in the clerestory windows, the tribune
arches and between the nave arcades that traces a progression of three lobes in
each pattern at the top, four in the middle and five lower down. This is an
excellent example of the “Geometrical Decorated” style of English Gothic.
An unusual feature of the decoration is the
stone carving on the capitals of the arcade and springing-points of the vault.
This has been done to represent purely natural objects such as oak leaves and
acorns, which adds a pleasing touch and does something, purely coincidentally,
to counteract the fact that the vault is only of wood and plaster and not the
original stone.
The chapter house is of interest, being an
elongated octagon vaulted from a central pier and dating from 1249. It is
situated on the north side of the choir and approached via a vestibule in which
is a medieval pedilavium, or a place where bishops (and sometimes kings) would
wash the feet of poor people on Maundy Thursday.
It is possible to stand at the west end of the
cathedral and see right through to the east end, as there are no screens or
other obstructions in the way. At the east end is the Lady Chapel, which forms
an extension of the choir and is built to the same height, but without aisles.
One can just make out the slight bend in alignment of the Lady Chapel, caused
by the need to fit the foundations to the lie of the sandstone bedrock of the
site.
Lichfield Cathedral is by no means the greatest
of English cathedrals but it is certainly well worth a visit, not least to view
some of the treasures it contains such as the Chad Gospels, an illuminated
manuscript dating from around 730.
© John Welford
No comments:
Post a Comment