The Monument, London

One of London’s most impressive monuments is just that – “The Monument”. It was built in 1671-7 as a reminder of the Great Fire of London of 1666, and it stands very close to Pudding Lane, the street in which the fire started in Robert Faryner’s bakery before spreading to destroy about 80 per cent of the old city of London. The height of the column, 202 feet, is supposed to be the distance from its base to the bakery.

The fire destroyed 87 churches as well as Old St Paul’s Cathedral, and the rebuilding owed a huge amount to the efforts of Sir Christopher Wren who designed not only the new Cathedral but many of the replacement churches and The Monument as well – the latter in collaboration with Robert Hooke.

The Monument comprises a single fluted Doric column on a large square base. It is unusual among London’s monuments and memorials in that members of the public can, for a reasonable fee, climb the 311 steps of a spiral staircase to the viewing platform near the top. In times gone by the view was more extensive than it is now, due to all the high-rise buildings that have appeared in London’s business district in recent decades, but the climb is still worth the effort, even now – and the exercise is good for you!

At the top of The Monument is a flaming golden urn, to symbolise the fire, and at the base there are inscriptions and reliefs by Caius Gabriel Cibber. Part of the original inscription blamed “Papists” for starting the fire – a self-deluded Frenchman confessed to the “crime” and was hanged, although he could not possibly have been responsible – but the words were erased in 1830 after the Catholic Emancipation Act was passed.

© John Welford

The Ashby Canal, Leicestershire

The Ashby Canal is unusual among British waterways in several respects. For one thing, it doesn't go to the place after which it is named, and in fact it never did--although it came close!

For another thing, it proceeds for 30 miles through gently undulating countryside without a single lock. It is therefore ideal for the novice narrow-boater who just wants to get used to steering a boat round lots of twists and turns without having to worry about negotiating locks. On the other hand, "doing the locks" is great fun too!

The canal was originally built to transport lime and coal southwards from the works and mines near Ashby-de-la-Zouch in Leicestershire. The canal links to the Coventry Canal near Bedworth (Warwickshire), and hence directly to Coventry and indirectly to Birmingham, and via the Oxford and Grand Union canals to all points south. For boaters on the Warwickshire Ring with two days to spare, a trip up the Ashby and back is well worth the trouble.

The first plans for the Ashby Canal included a link to the River Trent at Burton, but this was soon seen as being over-ambitious. Indeed, it was envisaged from a very early stage that when the canal reached the point where locks would be essential, a series of narrow-gauge tramways would connect the canal to the mines and limeworks. The canal itself therefore only ever reached as far as Moira, which is about three miles from Ashby.

The first disaster to hit the canal was the realisation that the coal reserves at Ashby were nothing like as great as had been thought. There would therefore not be the traffic to allow the canal to make a profit, and any thoughts of extending the canal to the Trent were shelved for ever. Good fortune then arrived, in the shape of extensive coal seams being discovered at Moira itself, so the canal found itself a purpose almost by accident. Moira coal was of such high quality that it was in demand as far south as London, and the route to get it there had just been constructed!

However, the second disaster was caused by the very thing that made the canal a success. When you take coal out of the ground, you almost always create subsidence as the layers above the coal seams press down to fill the holes that have been created. This happened in the Measham area, just south of Moira, in 1918 and again in 1966, the end result being that the present canal is about eight miles short of its original length.

As things stand, the canal ends near Snarestone, which is a tiny village with an excellent pub, but not much else. To go the whole length, you have to go through the Snarestone tunnel, which is 250 yards long, but until recently you could only go less than half a mile before needing to turn round and come back through the tunnel. However, a further stretch has already been restored, adding another half mile of navigable waterway. Work is in progress to extend this length even further.

The coalmines at Moira have long been abandoned, but the village now has a new lease of life as the headquarters of the National Forest, which is a scheme to transform a huge area of central England, much of it blighted by its industrial and mining heritage, into woodland and forest. The visitor centre at Moira, Conkers, is an excellent place to learn about how a forest works and its wildlife, as well as being an adventure centre for all ages. The plan is therefore to bring the Ashby Canal back to Moira so that the industrial history of the area can be linked seamlessly with its new role.

The Ashby Canal Association  has been working hard over a number of years to achieve this goal, and there is already a 1.5 mile stretch of usable canal running alongside the Moira Furnace, but it is unconnected to any other waterway. It is no longer possible to use the original route for the stretch between Moira and Snarestone, so the plan is to make use of a disused railway line through the small town of Measham.

For much of its length, the Ashby Canal meanders through open countryside. Because it sticks to the 300 foot contour for the whole of its length, and villages in this area tend to be built on hilltops, the canal passes within sight of several settlements without actually going through them.

One exception is the town of Hinckley, towards the southern end of the canal. This is an ancient town founded on the hosiery industry, but the canal skirts its western edge, passing close to a modern industrial estate and the Triumph motorcycle factory. The Limekilns pub is worth a visit, as it is built where the canal passes underneath the A5 trunk road, which was originally the Roman Watling Street. The building appears to be on two floors if you are on the road, but three if you are on the canal.

Close to its halfway point the canal crosses the site of the Battle of Bosworth Field, fought in 1485 between England's just and rightful king, Richard III, and the foul usurper Henry Tudor. What was formerly presumed to be the battlefield site is well marked out along a circular pathway that offers a good, brisk walk, and there is also a visitor centre. However, recent discoveries have revealed that the battle actually took place about half a mile away.

If you moor up at the battlefield you can also take a trip on the Battlefield Line Railway, which is a preserved four-and-a-half-mile section of the former Ashby and Nuneaton Joint Railway. Throughout the summer there are regular services between Shenton (battlefield) and Shackerstone. The canal passes close to all three stations on the line, although it takes six miles to do so! The Shackerstone Railway Society has preserved a large number of steam and diesel locomotives, many of which make regular trips along the line.

The thing most worth seeing on this beautiful stretch of water is the English countryside at its peaceful best. Canals attract wildlife in droves, and you will almost certainly see family groups of swans, ducks and moorhens either swimming around between the reeds or looking hopefully at you for titbits. You may also see herons, birds of prey and, if you're really lucky, kingfishers. Look out for water voles as well.

© John Welford

Some places of interest in Oxfordshire

Oxfordshire has much to offer the visitor, apart from the tourist traps of Blenheim Palace and Oxford itself. Here are a few suggestions of less well-known attractions, all of which are cared for by English Heritage.

(Follow this link for some other suggestions, all of which date from prehistoric times)

North Leigh Roman Villa (see photo above)

This is between Woodstock and Witney, to the north-west of Oxford. The villa must have been very impressive when occupied (it dates from the 4^th century AD) as the outlines of more than sixty rooms can be seen, including evidence of underfloor heating. No stonework other than footings can be seen today, but there is a fine mosaic floor to admire, although it is covered by a building to protect it from the elements.

Deddington Castle

There is not much of a castle to be seen here, as most of the original stonework had disappeared by the beginning of the 15^th century – no doubt re-used by local people for their own buildings. The castle was built by Bishop Odo, half-brother of William the Conqueror, but his structure would have been wooden, with stonework only being added in the 12^th century. 

The original builders made use of a pre-existing mound that could have dated back to Iron Age times, but they then developed the typical Norman pattern of an inner and outer bailey, protected by ditches and walls. It is the mound (“motte”) and ditches that can be seen today. The outer bailey is particularly large, and today it forms a pleasant place in which to walk and admire the magnificent trees that have been planted over the years to form a virtual arboretum.

Deddington is about six miles south of Banbury on the road to Oxford.

Minster Lovell Hall

Not far from Witney, Minster Lovell Hall was built by Lord William Lovell in the mid-15^th century. William’s grandson, Francis Lovell, was one of the chief supporters of Richard III; he survived the Battle of Bosworth and continued to rebel against Henry VII. There is a legend that his ghost haunts the ruins of Minster Lovell Hall.

Be that as it may, the ruins of this extensive manor house beside the River Windrush are well worth a visit. You can also see a virtually intact medieval dovecote, although only from the outside.

North Hinksey Conduit House

Just to the west of Oxford is a reminder of past efforts to provide clean water at a time when water-borne diseases could kill thousands. Built in the early 17^th century, this small building, which resembles a stone chapel, was where Otto Nicholson channelled water from the Hinksey hills into a lead pipe that led to Oxford. This system was used until the late 18^th century. Only the outside of the building can be visited.

Abingdon County Hall

Abingdon, although only about five miles from Oxford, was once the county town of Berkshire, to which it belonged until 1974. The County Hall was completed in 1684 from a design by Christopher Kempster, who was a student of Christopher Wren. It is therefore an excellent example of baroque architecture, comprising a large chamber built on arches, beneath which markets could be held. The building was the county courthouse for some 200 years, but it now houses the town’s museum. Given that Abingdon is one of the oldest continuously-occupied towns in England, the period covered by the exhibits is exceptionally long. During the summer, visitors can climb to the roof of the building for excellent views towards the Cotswolds in one direction and Oxford in the other.

© John Welford