This is an introduction to a restored relic of a bygone age, namely the pier at Bangor, North Wales. I stayed in a house overlooking the pier and relived memories of my time as a student at the nearby University.
The Victorians' love of piers
The Victorians had many admirable qualities, among which were a desire to stay healthy by taking gentle exercise, and excellent engineering skills. When the two came together the result was the seaside pleasure pier. Very few seaside resorts around the British coast did not have at least one pier by the end of the Victorian era, and the top resorts had several magnificent structures striding out to sea, such as Brighton with three!
Bangor Pier
Bangor, in north-west Wales, had to wait a long time for its pier, as it was not opened until 1896 when Queen Victoria was nearing the end of her life and reign.
Like most constructions of its kind, it had two main functions: as a place to promenade and take the sea air, and as a landing stage for pleasure steamers.
However, at low tide you can see that this pier had a third reason for its existence, as it is built on a foundation of hidden rocks that stretch for about two-thirds of its length. With the pier in place, no vessels would be tempted to take a short cut and risk grounding on the rocks.
From the picture above, you might query whether this is a sea pier at all, or merely an incomplete bridge. Bangor is at the eastern end of the Menai Straits, and the land you can see is the island of Anglesey (Ynys Mon in Welsh). The pier only goes half way across, ending at the deep water channel that has been scoured out by the strong tides that sweep through the Straits.
Construction and design
The pier was constructed mainly from steel, supported on spindly-looking cast iron columns and with a broad wooden decking. A landing stage was built at the sea end, together with a pavilion that today serves as a small cafe. At intervals along the 1550 foot length are small shelters, in pairs, with conical roofs. Today these are used as kiosk shops, mostly run by local charities. There are also ornamental lamps and seating along the sides of the pier. The two towers at the pier entrance have onion-domed roofs that betray the Victorian love of everything oriental.
The pier made Bangor fully accessible to coastal shipping, mainly for pleasure but also serving commercial purposes. Steamers ran from here along the North Wales coast, and also across the Irish Sea to the Isle of Man and Blackpool.
Decline and restoration
In 1914, a steamer failed to moor properly and collided with the pier, causing considerable damage and making it necessary to bridge the gap with a walkway that, because of the First World War, stayed in place for far longer than was intended. It was not until 1921 that the pier was finally repaired.
I was a student at Bangor University in the early 1970s but was never able to visit the pier at the time because it was in very poor repair and closed to the public. There was even talk of demolishing it altogether. However, a restoration project was started when it was declared to be one of the three finest surviving piers in the country (i.e. the UK, not just Wales). Raising the finances was a huge task, and it was not until 1982 that the work started. This took six years to complete, but when it was reopened in 1988 it was in a condition that its Victorian builders would have been proud of.
An uncertain future
Unfortunately, the story of restoration does not end there, because the pier is still in need of work to maintain it and keep it in a safe condition. There has been some concern that not enough money has been set aside by the local council to keep the pier in good condition.
At a time when local authorities across the country are desperately seeking ways to save money, maintaining a Victorian relic such as a pier might not come very high on the list of priorities. It would, however, be a shame if Bangor pier once again had to be closed due to safety concerns.
Visiting the pier
As thing stand, the pier is open throughout the year. There is a small entrance fee, but for much of the year you are asked to place your money in an "honesty box" at the gate. The views from the pier are magnificent, along the coast towards the Great Orme Head, down the Menai Straits, or inland.
The pier is an excellent vantage point for fishing, and for bird-watching. At low tide the nearby mudflats are exposed and thousands of wading birds come to feed, including oystercatchers, redshanks and little egrets.
If you are passing through this area, why not stop off for an hour or so to take a break and wander along the pier? You won't regret it! There's even a pub that serves excellent food very close to the pier entrance!
© John Welford
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