Visitors to York may think that they
need not leave the confines of the city for at least a week before their
interest wanes, and they would be right! However, if York is your base and you have your own
transport there is plenty to be seen that is within an easy day’s drive there
and back.
Castle Howard
Drive along
the A64 to the northeast for about 18 miles (towards Malton) and follow the
signs to one of Britain ’s
most magnificent country houses. Castle Howard has been home to the Howard
family for more than 300 years, having been designed by Sir John Vanburgh (a
playwright who had never designed anything before) and Nicholas Hawksmoor. The
building took more than 100 years to complete, but much of what the visitor
sees today is the result of restoration after a disastrous fire in 1940. The
building is familiar as the setting of “Brideshead Revisited”, filmed in 1978
and again in 2007.
The vast
house has many rooms that are open to the public, including the Great Hall with
its dome, which was rebuilt after the 1940 fire to the original design. There
are many treasures on display, including furniture by Sheraton and Chippendale
and paintings by Gainsborough, Rubens and Van Dyck.
There are
also 1000 acres of grounds to explore, the extensive views being bracketed by
examples of 18th century extravagance in the form of temples,
obelisks and statues. Water features abound, including fountains and large
artificial lakes, on one of which boat trips can be taken to observe the
wildlife.
The gardens
include a walled rose garden with more than 2,000 varieties and a woodland
garden that is renowned for its changing colours as the seasons rotate.
Castle Howard
represents excellent value for its entry fee, with the needs of children also
taken into account. A full family day out is therefore guaranteed.
Only about
ten miles further on from Castle Howard is Pickering , which is the terminus of the North
Yorkshire Moors Railway. This was used as the route of the “Hogwarts Express”
in the Harry Potter films. The line cuts through the North York Moors to
Grosmont and Whitby ,
with trains being drawn by steam or diesel locomotives. It is possible to go
all the way to Whitby and spend a few hours in
this fascinating old port town before making the return journey in order to get
back to York in
reasonable time.
Another way
to explore the Moors, during the summer months, is by “Moorsbus”, a network of
routes through the Moors that, with careful planning, you can use to create a
special day trip that leaves the driving to someone else. You can buy a ticket
that lasts all day on all the Moorsbus routes (children travel free if with a
fare-paying adult). You can park at several locations within easy reach of York and just set off. If
you want to get off the bus and just walk across the magnificent landscape of
the open moors you can do so and just hail a bus when you see one on the route
back. There is one bus a day each way between York and Helmsley, an ancient
market town on the edge of the Moors with medieval castle ruins to explore.
Rievaulx
Abbey and district
This ruined
Cistercian Abbey is close to Helmsley and therefore within easy day-trip
distance of York .
Although the site was despoiled during the Dissolution of the Monasteries in
the 1530s, the skeleton of the Abbey church, plus traces of the monastic
buildings surrounding it, bear witness to the wealth that the Abbey must have
possessed in its heyday. The beautiful setting of the Abbey in its wooded
valley is also very atmospheric and tranquil.
Unconnected
with the Abbey, but not far away, is the Rievaulx Terrace, which was
constructed in the 18th century to provide a romantic view of the
Abbey in the valley below. This provides a picnic spot for a break during a
full-day trip to the area.
Rievaulx is close to the Hambleton Hills, which offer
splendid views across the Vale of York to the Yorkshire Dales in the distance.
At Sutton Bank is a National Park Visitor Centre, and not far away is the
massive Kilburn White Horse, the most northerly such feature in the country.
You need to be at the bottom of the hill to appreciate it fully but at the top
to get the best views of the surrounding countryside.
Also not far away
is Byland Abbey, another Cistercian foundation that was always the “poor
relative” of Rievaulx. The ruins are not as extensive as those at Rievaulx, but
are impressive nevertheless, with the lower half of the frame of a huge rose
window at the west end of the church being particularly noteworthy.
Should time
permit, a visit can be made to Shandy Hall, Coxwold, which was the home of the
eccentric English novelist Lawrence Sterne (1713-68), the author of “The Life
and Opinions of Tristram Shandy, Gentleman”. The house is open as a museum of memorabilia
devoted to Sterne, although only on Wednesday and Sunday afternoons. The 2-acre
gardens are open as a separate attraction, every day except Saturdays.
Knaresborough
is 22 miles west of York , with Harrogate
being four miles beyond. The former is an attractive old town that rises above
the River Nidd as it flows through a steep gorge. Visitors will be interested
in the 14th century castle, with its dungeon and underground tunnel,
and “Mother Shipton’s Cave”, which is reputed to be where a 16th
century prophetess predicted events including the wars of the 20th
century. Perhaps even stranger is the “Petrifying Well”, where objects hung in
the constant drip of mineral-rich water are turned to stone within a few
months.
The Yorkshire Coast
A day at the
seaside is perfectly possible starting from York . Bridlington has a safe sandy beach and
is an excellent, albeit declined, family resort. On the road to Bridlington
from York you soon pass the site of the Battle
of Stamford Bridge, where King Harold defeated a Norwegian invasion before
marching to defeat at Hastings
in 1066.
Filey is somewhat
more upmarket as a resort than Bridlington, with many Edwardian features
including some splendid public gardens. It also boasts miles of sandy beach.
Scarborough
is the largest Yorkshire resort, with
everything to provide a family day out including two sandy beaches, amusements
and rides, a cliff railway, boat trips and a sea life centre. Between the two
beaches, on a headland, stand the extensive ruins of Scarborough Castle
which dates from the 12th century.
An
alternative to a day on the beach is offered by the cliff scenery at
Flamborough Head, just north of Bridlington. The 400-foot chalk cliffs are best
seen from the north side. You can visit the lighthouse on the Head itself, or
go two miles up the coast to the nature reserve at Bempton Cliffs which is
famous for its gannets and puffins. If time permits, you can take a boat trip
from Bridlington to view the Flamborough and Bempton Cliffs from the sea.
The above
suggestions are by no means an exhaustive list of the day trips you can make
using York as
your base. The towns of Ripon and Selby, with their respective Cathedral and
Abbey, are well within day-trip distance, as are the ruins of Fountains Abbey,
another vast Cistercian abbey that was dissolved in the 1530s. You could even
venture into the southern part of the Yorkshire Dales, but the further you go
the less time you will have to appreciate their beauty.
However long
you spend in York ,
and however many day trips you make, you are bound to want to come back and see
and do more!
© John Welford
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