The southern coast of Cornwall has several river valleys
that form wide estuaries as they meet the sea and offer a softer landscape than
that of the rocky headlands of the far west and north Cornish coast. One of
these estuaries is at Fowey, a few miles east of St Austell.
A relic of the Ice Age
The river valleys of Cornwall turned into tidal estuaries
when sea levels rose after the end of the last Ice Age; the technical term for
such a feature is “ria”. These have created deep water anchorages at the river
mouths and stretches of water that are navigable much further inland than would
otherwise have been the case.
The enlarged valley of the Rover Fowey (pronounced “Foy”)
has been used commercially since Roman times, when tin mining was carried out
further inland. The trade in later centuries was in china clay, large
quantities of which are still extracted from the quarries near St Austell.
The port of Fowey was also important in past centuries as a
military base. In 1346 the town supplied 700 men and 47 vessels for the siege
of Calais, as against only 25 that sailed from London. In later years the
seamen of Fowey turned their hand to piracy.
Fowey town
The houses and other buildings of Fowey crowd closely
together around a jumble of narrow streets (including a “Trafalgar Square”).
The waterfront, with its tall buildings, is best seen from the other side of
the harbour and makes a very attractive sight at night when lit up.
Just south of the town is St Catherine’s Castle on a rocky
promontory above the sea. This was built on the orders of King Henry VIII as
one the chain of castles intended to defend ports all along the English south coast
at a time of threat from France. It was a small artillery fort that was never
as well developed as other Cornish defences such as St Mawes and Pendennis
castles (although it was extended during the 19th century Crimean
War), but a visit is worthwhile If only for the views to be had from its walls.
Getting away from the crowds
The small towns and villages that dot the Cornish coast are
notable for being tourist traps in summer, and the town of Fowey, with its
narrow streets, is not immune from the effect of its attractiveness. It is,
however, less commercialised than some other places such as Polperro, which is eight
miles to the east. It is therefore advisable to explore Fowey on foot, having
left your car at the car park on the edge of town.
It is, however, perfectly possible to get away from the
crowds if one is prepared to forget the car and walk along the river and cliff paths
on either side of the harbour.
East of the river
Access from Fowey is made possible by the ferries that cross
the short distance from Fowey to Polruan (foot passengers and bicycles only)
and Boddinick (cars and foot passengers).
A popular walk is the four-mile “Hall Walk” that uses both
ferries and skirts the Pont Pill tributary estuary of the Fowey River. There
are excellent views of the harbour and only two steep climbs.
Other walks can take in part of the Southwest Coast Path
along the cliff tops.
West of the river
You are bound to escape the crowds if you take a walk on the
peninsula to the west of Fowey Harbour, because much of this area is not
accessible by road.
Not far along the coast is the secluded small bay of
Polridmouth (pronounced Pridmouth) which is half a mile from the nearest road.
A dam across the small river that empties into the bay has created a freshwater
ornamental lake.
Another walk can take you to Gribbin Head, with its red and
white “day mark” (a sort of unlit lighthouse) and the small harbour at
Polkerris (which has a pub!). This walk affords magnificent views out to sea
and along the Cornish coast to the west.
Wildlife
This is an area that is rich in plant, animal and bird life.
Sea spurge and edible rock samphire grow along the shoreline, and the cliff
tops abound with cornflowers, field pansies, speedwell and tormentil. The Pont
Pill estuary is wooded, with oak, ash, chestnut, beech and sycamore being the
prominent tree species.
Among the birds to be seen are kestrels, skylarks, meadow
pipits, wheatears and stonechats.
A famous former resident
Fowey was the home for many years of the writer Daphne du
Maurier (1907-89). One of her homes, Menabilly, was the model for “Manderley”
in her best-known novel “Rebecca”. It has been suggested that Pont Pill was the
original “Frenchman’s Creek”, although it is generally believed that she had in
mind the Helford River much further west.
Fowey hosts an annual Festival of Arts and Literature in her
honour.
All-in-all, this is a very pleasant corner of Cornwall to
visit, especially for people who like their towns picturesque and their countryside
unspoilt and uncrowded.
© John Welford
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