Tuesday, 22 January 2019

The Lizard Peninsula, Cornwall




The tip of Cornwall’s Lizard Peninsula is the most southerly point of England. The cliffs rise to 70 metres (200 feet), broken by small rocky coves, some of which house harbours and tiny fishing villages.

The rocks that form the Lizard are of great interest to geologists. Serpentine is predominantly green in colour and can be worked into attractive ornaments, which are less popular now than they were in Victorian times. The parish church of St Wynwallow at Landewednack was built from blocks of granite and serpentine, and the pulpit and font were both carved from serpentine. Landewednack is the most southerly parish in England.

Soapstone is another interesting rock found here.

Popular coves include Mullion Cove, which has a picturesque harbour and an island bird reserve, and Kynance Cove which has caves to explore and a blowhole called the Devil’s Bellows through which the sea spouts when the tide comes in.

On the eastern side of the Lizard are the villages of Cadgwith and Coverack. The latter name is Cornish for “hideaway”, which refers to the previous use of the area as a smuggler’s haven.

Offshore are the dangerous rocks known as the Manacles, which have been responsible for many shipwrecks in the past. The tall spire of the church of St Keverne was a vital landmark for ships in the Channel, and the churchyard is the burial place of many sailors who failed to set their course correctly despite the spire’s guidance.

Myths abound in a place like this, and these include stories of mermaids. One tells of an old man who rescued a mermaid and returned her to the sea, for which kindness she granted him three wishes. When his time came to die she came for him and took him out to sea with her. 

Whether or not you believe tales like this, The Lizard is still a place of particularly grandeur and wild beauty.

© John Welford

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