A short guide to the Yorkshire Dales

People have written whole books on the Yorkshire Dales, so a short summary cannot hope to do them justice. Perhaps it is best just to give a short account of what the Dales are, then outline some of the main reasons why so many people make this area their destination.

The Yorkshire Dales comprises an area of around 680 square miles in North Yorkshire, forming part of the Pennine Range of high limestone hills (often capped by millstone grit). Drainage of the area is mostly west to east and south-east, forming long parallel valleys that are the Dales themselves. There are a number of tributary valleys, such that there are around twenty named dales, each of which has its own charms and attractions. The area was designated as a National Park in 1954, which means that the area will for ever remain unspoiled by industry or excessive tourism or housing development.

The Dales

The main dales, such as Wensleydale and Wharfedale, are broad, flat-bottomed valleys with a river running through that gathers tributary streams from the surrounding hills. These streams often cascade over waterfalls that are clearly at their best after a period of heavy rain; but this is England, so you won’t have to wait long!

The valley floors and lower slopes are working farms, mostly given to rearing sheep and cattle in traditional ways. The fields are divided by dry stone walls, and many fields contain stone-built byres that are used for storage of winter feed. Some fields are used for pasture and others are meadows on which grass is grown for hay and silage. During the spring and early summer these meadows are brightly coloured with a wealth of wild flowers, that in turn attract many species of insect, especially butterflies.

The hills

The valley sides rise steeply with meadows and pastures giving way to open moorland on the upper slopes and level plateaux that separate the dales. The geology of the area, with millstone grit overlying the limestone, has given rise to characteristic “caps” on many of the hills. None of these count as peaks or mountains, but there is a stern test for walkers on some of the higher hills, such as Pen-y-Ghent or Whernside. These hills are very popular with hang gliders, who can stay airborne for hours as they soar on the thermals rising up from the valleys.

Malham Cove and Tarn, to the south of the National Park, is a spectacular example of upland limestone scenery, including a 300-foot limestone cliff and a large limestone pavement formed from centuries of water seeping through the rock. Nearby Gordale Scar is every bit as impressive.

Caves

Karst limestone is ideally suited to the formation of cave systems, created when water opens cracks in the rock and then dissolves it over many centuries. You can see places where streams have disappeared underground, only to reappear further down the hillside, possibly giving rise to cave systems. Some of these caves are safe for the general public to visit.

White Scar Caves, near Ingleton, features the longest show cave in England, with massive caverns, a thundering waterfall, and wonderful stalactites.

You can also visit Ingleborough Cave and see the entrance to Gaping Gill, although the latter is for cavers only, as are many other extensive systems in the southern part of the National Park.

For walkers

Two major long-distance paths cross the National Park. The Pennine Way goes south-north, connecting Malham, Pen-y-Ghent, Hawes (at the head of Wensleydale) and the head of Swaledale before heading towards Teesdale and the Cheviot Hills. The Coast-to-Coast path goes west-east, including Swaledale on its route. Another challenging trek is the 25-mile Three Peaks Walk that links Pen-y-Ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough.

However, there are many shorter walks you can take that will show you the quieter parts of the Dales and give you as much or as little exercise as you want. Just take a map (and a camera!) and wear sensible clothing and shoes.

Railways

The main attraction for railway buffs is the Settle and Carlisle Railway, the most scenic line on the British Rail network. This runs from south to north across the western part of the Dales. Not only are the views from the train stunning, but so is the architecture of the line itself. Its most spectacular feature must be the 24-arch Ribblehead viaduct.

The line that once ran the length of Wensleydale is gradually being restored under private ownership, and it is now possible to travel along 17 miles of the line from Leeming Bar through Leyburn as far as Redmire. In time, it is hoped to re-connect the line to the Settle and Carlisle Railway at Garsdale.

At the southern end of the National Park, the Embsay and Bolton Abbey Steam Railway runs for four miles, nearly connecting Skipton with Wharfedale. As with the Wenselydale Railway there are hopes of extending the line.

For nature lovers

The Yorkshire Dales are home to many species of plants, animals, insects and birds that are hard to find elsewhere. Without listing them all, notable examples of each include the wood cranes-bill, the red squirrel, the northern brown argus butterfly, and the goshawk. The varied habitats of moorland, meadow, river, woodland and bare limestone crag all have their own micro-environment and wildlife.

Towns and villages

There are not many towns of any size in the Dales, but each one has attractions of its own. Hawes is notable for its cheese factory, where you can see Wensleydale cheese being produced. Richmond, at the foot of Swaledale, has a magnificent castle. Masham is worth a visit for its two breweries. Skipton has a well-preserved castle and a street market four days a week.

There are tiny villages everywhere you go in the Dales, many of them just comprising a few farms and cottages, but there are small shops and pubs in a number of them. One remarkable village is Dent, to the west of the Dales, in which the narrow streets are cobbled and nobody rushes anywhere. It is hard to believe that you are in the 21^st century when you walk past the cottages or through the churchyard, looking out to the hills beyond.

Historic buildings

As well as the castles at Skipton and Richmond, mentioned above, places to visit include Bolton Priory, which can be reached via the Embsay Railway and a short walk. This is partly intact and partly in ruins, the intact part comprising the parish church. A short walk takes you to The Strid, a whitewater section of the River Wharfe.

Bolton Castle has nothing to do with Bolton Priory, and is in fact in Wensleydale, near Aysgarth (which is itself worth visiting for its magnificent three-part waterfalls). Bolton Castle, which has been partially restored, is a 14^th century building that was once the prison of Mary Queen of Scots.

Middleham Castle, near Leyburn, was originally built by the Normans and was the home of Richard, Duke of York before he became King Richard III. Middleham is also the home of several horseracing stables.

Not far from Middleham are the ruins of Jervaulz Abbey, a 12^th century Cistercian foundation.

A building of more recent vintage is the recently restored Gayle Mill, near Hawes. This uses water power to drive woodworking machinery, having had several other uses over the centuries.

And finally …

This has had to be a brief, potted guide to the Yorkshire Dales, that can do no more than whet the appetite. Access to the Dales is reasonably easy, although the roads are often narrow and twisty. As mentioned above, rail access is limited. Accommodation in the Dales towns and villages is also limited, and you will not find any large caravan parks, although there are several discreet camp sites. However, the Dales are within day-trip reach of many larger cities in the region.

For further information, try looking at the website of the Yorkshire Dales National Park.

© John Welford