A short guide to Winchester

Winchester, the county town of Hampshire, was once of far greater importance, being the capital of Alfred the Great’s Kingdom of Wessex and therefore the most important city in England. William the Conqueror hoped that his claim to the throne would be accepted by having himself crowned in Winchester as well as London. It was the monks of Winchester who were commissioned to prepare the Domesday Book.

Today, the visitor is rewarded by a compact city with many narrow lanes, surrounded by old buildings, to explore, as well as one of England’s greatest cathedrals and plenty more to excite the imagination.

Winchester Cathedral

The cathedral has the distinction of being the longest church in Europe, at 556 feet, and its squat external profile contrasts with the soaring spire at Salisbury, just 25 miles down the road. However, the interior is superb, being a mixture of Norman and Perpendicular styles. The choir stalls date from the early 14^th century and are the earliest complete set in the country.

Winchester Cathedral was the burial place of several early kings of England, including Cnut and William Rufus, as well as Jane Austen, who died in the city in 1817.

Of particular interest is the statue of William Walker, a deep-sea diver, who stands holding his massive diving helmet. From 1906 to 1911 he worked on a project to save the cathedral from collapse by diving into the flooded foundations and packing them with bags of concrete. He spent up to six hours a day working in total darkness, and it was mainly due to him that the cathedral still stands.

The Great Hall

The hall was originally part of a Norman castle, most of which no longer exists. The hall was rebuilt between 1222 and 1235 and remains the finest example of its type and age in the country. The main feature of interest is the brightly painted disc, some 18 feet across, that hangs on the wall at one end. This was venerated for many years as the famous round table at which King Arthur sat with his knights, but it is now known to have been constructed in the 14^th century and painted at the time of Henry VIII as a “PR” exercise; the supposed portrait of King Arthur bears a remarkable resemblance to King Henry!

Also in the Hall is a massive bronze statue of Queen Victoria, constructed to mark her golden jubilee in 1887.

Winchester College

This is the earliest “public” school in England, established in 1382 for “poor scholars” but now charging the highest fees in the country! Guided tours are available throughout the year (with some exceptions) and include most of the oldest parts of the College such as the chapel, cloisters and scholars’ dining room.

St Cross Hospital

This is the oldest continuing almshouse in England, having been in operation for more than 850 years. Visitors can still ask for the “wayfarer’s dole” and be given a beaker of beer and morsel of bread.

The late Norman church, begun in 1135, is all that remains of the original buildings, and is notable for its metre-thick walls and the cross of St Cross on which sunlight falls on only two days a year, 3^rd May and 14^th September, the latter being Holy Cross Day. The Brethren’s Hall, with its musicians’ gallery, can also be visited.

Visitors should take time to wander through the grounds which provide a welcome respite from the busy city. The Hospital can be reached via a 20-minute riverside walk from the city centre.

City Mill

The original medieval mill, powered by water from the River Itchen, was rebuilt in 1743 and ground corn for the city until the 20^th century. It has now been restored by the National Trust and milling demonstrations are given at weekends. Visitors can buy bags of flour from the shop and take part in hands-on activities including using hand querns.

Winchester is a great place just to wander through and discover the unexpected, such as medieval buildings and gateways and some excellent antique shops.

Devotees of Jane Austen will want to pay their respects at 8 College Street, where she died, although the house is not open to the public and there is only a blue plaque on the wall to distinguish the house from its neighbours. However, it is only a short drive from Winchester to Chawton (near Alton) where Jane Austen spent her final years and wrote several of her novels, her house now comprising the Jane Austen Museum.

© John Welford