The chances are that the first time you get close to the
waters of Loch Ness you will scan the surface eagerly, just in case a long
snake-like neck should spring into view! Loch Ness will forever be linked to
its supposed monster, which must have brought millions to its shores over the
years.
However, even if they are disappointed by lack of a
sighting, visitors cannot help but be impressed by the loch itself as it
stretches away into the distance and the mountains rise on either side. There
are more beautiful lochs in Scotland than Loch Ness, but few have the same
savage grandeur on this scale.
Loch Ness is 24 miles long, up to a mile wide and more than
750 feet deep in places, so it contains a huge amount of water (more fresh
water than is contained in all the lakes of England and Wales combined) that has
been trapped there since the last Ice Age 10,000 years ago. It is of great
interest to geologists because it lies in the Great Glen, the rift valley that
separates the Grampian Mountains from the Northwest Highlands (the two sections
once formed parts of different ancient continents).
The city of Inverness lies at the north-east end of the loch
and is a good base for “Nessie watchers” and others who wish to enjoy the
natural wild scenery of Loch Ness. The main A82 road to Fort William hugs the
western side of the loch, but trees growing up from the edge of the loch tend
to obstruct one’s view of the loch itself. There are, however, a number of
viewpoints along the way that can be stopped at.
About halfway along is the village of Drumnadrochit where
the Loch Ness Centre and Exhibition can be found. It has to be stressed that
this is not a tourist trap designed to sell tatty souvenirs to credulous
visitors but a serious science-based venture that presents the results of
proper studies into the geology, ecology and wildlife of Loch Ness. The
exhibition’s use of interactive displays and special effects make it a
fascinating place for young and old to enjoy.
Also at Drumnadrochit are the ruins of Urquhart Castle,
which was built in the 13th century on a promontory that juts into
the loch. The castle is well worth a visit in its own right for the story it
tells of the troubled and violent history of this part of Scotland. However, as
was mentioned above, views of the loch from the road alongside are annoyingly
limited, so the chance to take in the vista from the top of the castle should
not be missed. The castle has a relatively new exhibition centre that includes
a scale model of how the castle looked when in its prime.
A detour can be taken at Drumnadrochit to visit the remote,
wild, and much less visited Glen Affric, which runs parallel to Loch Ness on
the northern side. You can also take a cruise on Loch Ness aboard “Deepscan”,
which is a boat that is used for scientific research purposes.
At the southern end of Loch Ness is Fort Augustus, where you
can see the flight of locks that connect Loch Ness to the Caledonian Canal, which
provides passage for shipping up to a certain size from one side of Scotland to
the other. The fort buildings, which were later converted into an abbey and
school, are now in private hands.
The road along the eastern side of the loch is much quieter
than the main road on the western side and could be one’s route of choice if
time permits. However, the road does not hug the waterside for the full length of
Loch Ness and it also suffers from the tree problem that obstructs views on the
western side. Being a narrow road it is provided with passing places, and these
should not be used as stopping places for people wanting to view the loch.
The eastern road is the route to the village of Foyers, near
which is a dramatic waterfall, especially after a period of heavy rain.
There is therefore plenty to see and do around Loch Ness,
even if Nessie fails to make an appearance!
© John Welford
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