What makes a
train route scenic? Presumably it is one where the view from the window is more
interesting than one’s book, crossword or fellow passengers! England , as distinct from other parts of the United Kingdom ,
has many rail routes than qualify in these terms, although the habit of
railways to disappear into tunnels and cuttings can make life frustrating at
times.
Settle to
Carlisle
Probably the
most scenic route, in terms of the proportion of the journey that has the “wow”
factor, is the Settle to Carlisle line in the north of England . The
line is 72 miles long, proceeding through the spectacular scenery of the
Yorkshire Dales and the Cumbria Fells, which comprise part of the Pennine Range ,
the “backbone” of northern England .
This line has been threatened with closure several times in its history, but
its future now seems assured, especially as its tourism potential has been
recognised in recent years, and steam locomotives are sometimes used to haul
“specials”.
One of the
most spectacular features of the Settle-Carlisle line is the Ribblehead
Viaduct (see photo), which has 24 arches, carrying the line for 440 yards, 105 feet up. The
view from the train is magnificent, as it is for mile after mile as the line
climbs and descends through some of England ’s wildest landscapes.
Other northern
lines
There are many
other stretches of line that offer splendid views of the hillier parts of
England. Among these one could mention the lines between Manchester
and Leeds, Manchester and Sheffield, and Newcastle and Carlisle .
The West
Coast main line reaches its highest point at Shap Summit, 914 feet above sea
level. This stretch of line, between Carnforth and Penrith, crosses the spur of
high land that connects the Pennines to the Lake District ,
and the views from the train are as scenic as might be imagined.
However, a railway
line does not need to run across moors and between mountains to be scenic. Some
of the best views in England
are of the sea, from lines that run close to the coast. One of these is also in
the Lake District, running along the shore from Barrow to Maryport, before
turning inland towards Carlisle .
Southern
scenes
In the south
of England , the most
dramatic coastal route must be that along the south Devon
coast, especially at Dawlish where the tracks run right along the shore with
the sea on one side and cliffs on the other. The line sometimes has to close in
bad weather when the waves break over the tracks, and the line had to be
rebuilt in 2014 after it was washed away by a severe storm.
A favourite
seaside route of mine, however, is the stretch of line close to where I grew up
at Poole, in Dorset. As the train descends from Bournemouth it passes through
Parkstone station and suddenly emerges on to a causeway that swings round with
Poole Harbour on one side and the town of Poole, with its park and boating
lake, on the other. All trains stop at Poole, so as the train slows there is
time to admire the view across to Brownsea
Island and the Purbeck
Hills beyond.
After leaving
Poole, the line cuts across Holes Bay, an inlet of the harbour, providing more
views across water (or mud, if the tide is out!) and, again, the Purbeck Hills.
Preserved
lines
Many of the
most scenic routes are to be found on lines that have been preserved after
closure, having been re-opened by private organizations, often so that they can
be operated by steam traction. These are often routes that went to nowhere
important, so they were not commercially successful, and have only become so as
tourist attractions, using their scenic advantages as a main selling point.
There are
many notable railways of this kind in England ,
amongst which one could cite the Severn Valley Railway in Shropshire, the North
York Moors Railway, the Bluebell Line in Sussex ,
the Watercress Line in Hampshire, and the Swanage Railway in Dorset .
Mention
should also be made of the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway running between Kent and Sussex . This is a narrow-gauge railway,
13.5 miles long, that uses scaled-down steam locomotives to haul passengers
across Romney Marsh to the desolate shingle bank of Dungeness, with its
lighthouse. This is a scenic English railway if ever there was one!
The
Victorians built railways to virtually every corner of England ,
although the routes still operated are far fewer than in the heyday of rail.
However, many of the old routes are still accessible, having been converted
into footpaths and cycle routes. They are no less scenic for not being
traversed by trains.
© John Welford
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